Roger Schaeli’s large new course in Switzerland looks as if a gem. And it will have to be nails exhausting, for the reason that world-class climber needed to help it to get to the highest.

“Tierra Del Fuego” climbs a strikingly direct 600m line up the north face of the little-known Roda Val della Neve (2,682m). It is going at A2+, 6c — for now. Schaeli stated after the primary ascent that he’s concentrated on a redpoint bid subsequent summer season.

Schaeli’s option to climb it in impeccable taste seems to have pressured the help.

“I intentionally selected an overly purist taste of hiking: flooring up, solo, and trad, bolts best on the belays,” he informed up-climbing.com (auto-translated).

Schaeli stated the difficulties stack up within the first 350m of the course. After that, he stated, “Tierra Del Fuego” eases towards the summit.

Tierra del fuego

The road proceeds throughout the large left-facing flake halfway up the wall, then kind of instantly against the summit. Footage: Romano Salis

His challenge on Roda Val della Neve, which nestles in southeastern Switzerland, used to be one among discovery. Schaeli had by no means heard of the mountain sooner than a pal invited him on some other hiking function in other places within the space.

“If in case you have by no means heard of Roda Val della Neve, don’t fear! I felt the similar manner when Tom Barfuss — a just right mountaineer good friend from the Engadine — requested me to do a multipitch course in combination in Bregaglia,” he defined.

5 days at the wall

After Schaeli noticed the brand new line, he discovered tenuous acquire in a crack gadget that led him up the wall over 5 days. On up-climbing.com, he referred to as the face it fractures “extremely mighty”. He additionally famous its compact granite, which “casts its shadow up at the roads of the valley flooring”.

roda val della neve

Roda Val della Neve sits at the northeast ridge of Piz Cacciabella, observed right here. Photograph: Andreas Faessler by means of Wiki Commons

The course struck him as “chilly and adverse”. The foreboding feeling will have borne itself out in different climbers, too — only some scant routes hint the wall in other places, Schaeli’s analysis confirmed.

“However what me maximum have been the various sections of the wall the place no person had ever climbed sooner than. Particularly, the direct ascent within the steepest sector of the face attracted my consideration. So I in an instant made the verdict to open a brand new line,” he stated.

The course unlocked, all that is still is to loose climb it. Schaeli didn’t render an estimate of the trouble. “However for me, it’s transparent that this might not be [my] ultimate course on this southern Grisons valley,” he stated.

roger schaeli

Photograph: Romano Salis

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